Scientifically Speaking... 4 Ways to Nurture Your Nails

Do you want to show your nails that you really care? Sure, you take the time to keep them clean and you dress them nicely, but there are other ways to show your nails that you want the best for them- so that they can grow to be healthy and strong! As a scientist, I’ve spent decades studying natural nails and nail products, so I have a unique perspective that I can share.

Here are four ways to help nurture your nails!

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1 Never pick, peel, pry or scrape anything from the nail plate 

Many people’s nails are damaged by improper removal of nail polish or artificial nail coatings. Yet, this damage is easily avoided when the products are carefully applied and carefully removed. Improper removal causes most of the damage to nail plates and takes many forms. It often starts as picking at a coating and slowly advances into peeling. Before you know it, you’re prying or even scraping! Overly aggressive removal techniques often result in nail surface damage. Scientifically speaking, this is when groups of nail cells on the top surface of the nail plate are forcibly dislodged and a “roughness” is created. If the cells are entirely pulled away, tiny “pits” form. In early stages, this type of surface damage is often mistaken for “dryness,” but don’t be fooled! Such nails are not dry, they are damaged. If this damage continues, the small spots congregate which leads to increasingly larger white spots. People often think this is from nail dehydration, but it isn’t. Fortunately, these surface spots are easy to avoid by taking proper care when removing nail coatings. To do so, never rush or force the removal process. Take the time that’s necessary and always use proper care and caution. If you respect your nails, they’ll serve you better!

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2 Never over-file the nail plate

Less is best when it comes to using files and buffers. Even the finest grit nail file or the smoothest buffer will remove surface nail cells. Files and buffers work by being coated with abrasives that wear away the surface of the nail plate through the friction of filing to reduce its thickness. Depending on the materials used, some work more aggressively than others. A general rule of thumb is: the more course the file or buffer, the more nail damage and thinning it can cause. It’s important to know that by applying more of a downward pressure, any nail file or buffer can cause nail plate thinning or can even friction burn the nail bed causing onycholysis (separation of the nail plate from the nail bed). The thinner the nail plate is, the weaker and more likely it is to split, chip or break. Polish and other artificial nail coatings will adhere better to thicker nail plates than they will to thin or overly flexible nail plates. As the old saying goes, “You can’t build a strong house on a weak foundation.” So, an important element of nail health and your nails’ ability to wear nail polish and coatings is to keep your nail plates as thick as possible!

3 Never cut the skin around the nail plate

Cutting or trimming the skin that’s around the nail plate is asking for trouble. Why? Despite what some have concluded, the cuticle is dead tissue that has been bonded onto the nail plate. Found at the base of the nail plate however, the “proximal nail fold,” is living skin that includes hardened tissue caused by any previous cutting or trimming, as doing this causes the skin to grow back thicker and become harder. We take our hands everywhere with us and we get them into all sorts of things. Any cuts or abrasions caused to the proximal nail fold make this area highly susceptible to any infections that our hands are exposed to. The infection risk lasts until the damage has healed, which can range from several hours to several days. During this time, bacterial or viral infections are an increased risk. The more serious of these types of infections can lead to large medical bills and expensive hospital stays. In the worst cases, the infections spreads to the bone and result in amputation of the finger or even of the entire hand. So, needless to say, NEVER intentionally cut or abrade the skin around the nail plate. It’s a safety issue. If a loose tag of skin peels away from the proximal nail fold (aka a hangnail), trim it very carefully to avoid any tearing of the living skin. If the area becomes damaged, watch it carefully and keep it clean, dry and protected until it heals.

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4 Always use a penetrating nail oil

Regular use of a penetrating oil product that is specifically designed for nails will provide important benefits to both the nail plate and the surrounding skin. This means, fewer hangnails! Nail oil ingredients that are referred to as “cosmetic grade,” are refined to contain only smaller molecules that are better able to penetrate into the nail plate because they are able to absorb and slip between the layers of nail cells to internally lubricate them. This allows the various layers to slide, bend and flex more readily. Why is this important? Such nail plates are better able to resist impacts and defend themselves against microscopic cracking that lead to visible breaks. The refining process also removes waxy substances made from molecules that are too large to penetrate. How do you know if a nail oil is “penetrating”? Rub some on the inside of your wrist. If the oil won’t absorb into the skin quickly, it’s unlikely to absorb into the nail plate. Apply penetrating nail oils daily to keep your nails stronger and more flexible while improving the condition of the surrounding skin.

If you use these tips to nurture and show your nails respect, they will be there for you when you need them and they’ll always make you proud!

To learn more about how your nails work and more ways to keep them happy, read my books!